If you’re supplementing with CO2 and maximizing your light intensity then you’ll need to add 20 to 30% more nutrients and I push my ladies and this is what I find has been the best performance for me but you don’t have to get as many boosters you can just go with their main stuff BioGrow, BioBloom, CalMag and you’re done but you won’t get as dense nugs, as strong stems to hold those big nugs, etc… I also top my plans heavily and I defoliate them three times which also helps them Bush out more which requires in more nutrients to push them that far. So it’s really depending on your setup and how much you want out of your plants.

Are you following a VPD chart? If not, you really should look into it and start dialing in your grow room to maintain a proper VPD vapor pressure deficit level which will help your plants stay at optimal level which is directly responsible for the amount of nutrients/water it uptakes and you can control how much she drinks by providing a specific VPD level. This is what professional growers use to keep their garden at optimal level.

@DeAzNuTz Thanks for your response. This is my first grow and I’m in week 4 of veg. Planning to supplement with Co2 as I flip to flower. Also planning to get a bigger tent 5x5 as an upgrade to my 3x3. Have 4 plants in the tent. Planning to upgrade my light to Mars Hydro TS 3000 450w since that is the best light I can afford. And I was going to use Fox Farm trio and calmag and hope for the best. Biobizz seems a little more expensive. I like the idea of growing totally organic, maybe next grow I could give that a try. I was just wondering if the results are really that much different with all those boosters you use in your feeding schedule. If the diff is night and day I could justify it. Really cool how in depth your technique is man. I got into this thinking give it water and light, get weed haha. I don’t know what a VPD chart is. I’ll have to look into that

Yeah it really makes a world of difference. Otherwise i wouldn’t spend my time and money and energy adding all these nutes and figuring out the best proportions, etc…

That light you’re getting will work but as normal performance, that will not provide an intense amount of light so you don’t need to get sealed too because it won’t work. For CO2 to work you need to combine all three things which are intense light, high temperatures between 80 and 86° F, and 20 yo 30% more nutrients and the only then your plans will benefit of providing you with 20 to 40% higher yields.

If you’re trying to stay organic and you want to save money then I highly highly recommend going to www.kelp4less.com get their:

1. Grow Pack (for veg. It’s a mixture of different nutrients in one package for ready feeding)
2. Bloom Pack (for flowering)
   They both come with dry CalMag do you don’t need to buy extra CalMag. Trust me you’ll get very good results and you only need to add one part nutrients with one part Cal mag and you’re done. Wait until you see the results and you’ll be blown away for the fraction of the price the results will get are outstanding. I actually use them for my cloning and experimental mother plants not to waste my biobizz nutrients on them. The reason I use them is because I used to use them throughout the whole cycle until I started using Biobizz. I also used to use Roots Organic company which is also very good but it’s more expensive than kelp4less.
   
   
   
   
   

Also i forgot to add something extremely important… You’ve probably heard to check your pH after mixing nutes and also after watering you want to collect the runoff of every grow pot to measure PPM to know how much they have used and how much came back out to adjust your feeding for next watering and also to check for pH. The important part is to NEVER check your runoff for pH because it’s horribly inaccurate! I have killed a few plants because I was measuring the runoff pH which was showing me 7.8 - 7.6 - 8.0 meanwhile my pH was at 6.0 - 6.1 and i was trying to lower pH when i didn’t need to and killed my plants. When i invested in blue lab soil pH pen for $185 on Amazon i immediately checked the soil in my other pots and that’s when I realized my pH was at 6.0 but the runoff was showing close to 8.0 which is a huge difference and extremely inaccurate. After doing some more research and talk to a couple pros they all said to never go by runoff pH because it’s horribly inaccurate. Your best bet is to get a blue lab pen but if that’s too steep then you can get one from NukeHeads site for $60 and it’s also great, just don’t last long. Usually around 1 year (that’s what the website says that accuracy lasts about 1 year)

Yes, Ignore the run-off PH.. Just use a soil PH probe to measure (Top, Middle & Bottom) PH levels of the substrate.

*If the PH value is reading subsequently lower at the bottom of the substrate, it will become a issue later on. When feeding the pots, one should always “slow feed” the nutrient solution. If you dump your liquid feed to fast, it’ll wash most of the manure & elements to the bottom of the medium causing PH lockout..

#That’s why I always say, @DeAzNuTz the “Grow” itself is ones best teacher. Look at the beneficial aspect thereof - You gain knowledge & experience which nobody can ever take away from you.. That’s #Old_School_Toking right there!

Thank you guys! @DeAzNuTz @Ratch33

Mostly t0 @DeAzNuTz , but it’s always a pleasure buddy!! Good luck

I’m doing hydro I spent a lot of money before on advance nutrients and it was a waste of money so I just got “general hydroponics” they’re powdered nutrients it’s not separate A and B but I got that I got GRWAT WHITE for my roots and I got PURPINATOR which is hard to get A lot of places don’t wanna mail it to the US and I got a CAL MAG AND SUPER THRIVE I JUST DONT HAVE A BLOOM BOOSTER AND IM MAKING MY OWN CO2 exhaler

What is vpd is that for Rdwc?

Hey buddy,

Regarding Hydroponics - @DeAzNuTz & @NicoZ should be your go to guys. I do not have extensive experience with Hydro. If you ever switch to organic substrates, i’ll be able to assist… I only cultivate using CoCo mix…

I do not want to be the murderer of them girls, lol

Vapour-pressure deficit

Vapour-pressure deficit, or VPD, is the difference (deficit) between the amount of moisture in the air and how much moisture the air can hold when it is saturated. Once air becomes saturated, water will condense out to form clouds, dew or films of water over leaves. It is this last instance that makes VPD important for greenhouse regulation. If a film of water forms on a plant leaf, it becomes far more susceptible to rot. On the other hand, as the VPD increases, the plant needs to draw more water from its roots. In the case of cuttings, the plant may dry out and die. For this reason the ideal range for VPD in a greenhouse is from 0.45 kPa to 1.25 kPa, ideally sitting at around 0.85 kPa. As a general rule, most plants grow well at VPDs of between 0.8 and 0.95 kPa.[citation needed]

In ecology, it is the difference between the actual water vapour pressure and the saturation water vapour pressure at a particular temperature. Unlike relative humidity, vapour-pressure deficit has a simple nearly straight-line relationship to the rate of evapotranspiration and other measures of evaporation.

Climate

VPD can be a limiting factor in plant growth. Climate change is predicted to increase the importance of VPD in plant growth, and will further limit growth rates across ecosystems

Do I need a dehumidifier and vpd for a 4x4 tent Rdwc in a shed building?

Is there an easy way to measure vpd?

Not by my standards i’m afraid.

Computing VPD for plants in a greenhouse

To compute the VPD,[1] we need the ambient (greenhouse) air temperature, the relative humidity and, if possible, the canopy air temperature. We must then compute the saturation pressure. Saturation pressure can be looked up in a psychrometric chart or derived from the Arrhenius equation, a way to compute it directly from temperature is.

You also need Infrared Sensor to measure fan leave temps.. If the “Relative values” are in parameters you should be fine!

Welcome to the community @Great_white

@Ratch33 @Stoney1BudTokie @Guigrow

IS ANYONE INTERESTED IN SOME TOP SHELF SEEDS?

Photoperiod stains I currently have available if anyone is interested that are fresh, all are feminized, and all are over 20% THC content. Free USPS shipping with tracking number in a very strong container. Mix and match them however you like. Guaranteed safe delivery.
Send a text with what you want and method of payment so I can provide the email to use for that method or if you have any questions @ (929) 374-3745
I accept PayPal, Zelle, Cash app.

1 Seed - $10
3 Seeds - $25
5 Seeds - $40
10 Seeds - $70

Sour Diesel
Strawberry Cough
Banana Kush
Black Window
Gelato
Critical Mass
Cherry Pie
Chocolope
Sunset Sherbet
Green Crack
Zkittlez
Gorilla Glue - GG #4
Amnesia Haze
G13
LA Confidential
Gold Leaf
Chem Dawg
Chronic Widow
California Dream
Super Lemon Haze
Bruce Banner
Skywalker
Trainwreck
Purple Haze
Godfather OG - this strain is 30%+ THC content

If it’s NOT under the sun and under artificial lighting than you’ll always need to follow VPD chart. You’ll need to be able to control the environment so yes you’ll need an HVAC system in big room or tent you’ll need exhaust fan, humidifier, dehumidifier, AC, and intake fan to provide an ample amount of fresh air which will also prevent from mold and mildew.
Here’s a reliable VPD chart and information . Just make sure to invest in infrared thermometer to measure your leaf’s temperature because your leaves temperature will be roughly up to 5° cooler than inside tent and that’s called leaf temperature or offset temperature. You’ll understand why that’s important to know once you read the VPD guide.

You will be expecting an order of some of them for sure @DeAzNuTz, but the Nukedaddy s are insane the sizes of the colas lovely collection

Yeah bro, huge seeds! Makes sense why they grow out to be so thick and dense.

@DeAzNuTz just got my grow pack from Kelp4Less in the mail! Can’t wait to feed my girls next watering!