Manifolding / Mainlining: Eure Geheimtipps, Erfahrungen& Feedback zu meiner Technik?

Hi folks,

I’m currently in the middle of Manifolding (You can find details and progress in my public Logs, otherwise I’ll drop links in the comments if needed).

I wanted to hear what your secret tips are and where you see potential for improvement or mistakes in my approach. Briefly about my approach and my current challenges:

• Bending Technique: To make the shoots as flexible as possible, I combine massaging and bending. I carefully bend them back and forth until they roughly hold the shape, and only then do I fix them. How do you do it? Are you more aggressive in your approach?

• Problem Case: Split Stem (No. 1): During training, the stem of No. 1 slightly split. I immediately secured it with tape and loosened the wire. Do you have any tips for the healing phase, or does it usually just heal on its own for you?

• Problem Case: Large Internodal Spacing (No. 2): How do you proceed if a plant (like my No. 2) has extremely large internodal spacing? Are there any special tricks to keep the structure compact despite this?

• Timing: I’ve tried both timing approaches – bending down directly after the cut, and also waiting a few days first. What are your long-term experiences? What ultimately stresses the ladies less?

• Nutrients: Do you use special microbes or additives to mitigate the stress of intense training?

Share your experiences, criticism, and learnings!

I bend the shoots downwards directly after topping. This time, I had a plant that somehow didn’t notice and kept growing upwards, so I checked it daily and loosened the anchor until it stopped doing that. For the first shoots that then grow, I also constantly bend them downwards and anchor them directly because the shoots are still nice and soft then. The anchors are constantly moved further outwards until I top them again. I proceed this way until it has completed its training and is allowed to grow upwards.

You handled the crack in the stem well; many have had this problem. It will heal well again. Don’t forget to remove the tape once it’s healed, as it could grow into the stem or constrict it. You can also use cling film, as you can see through it and it doesn’t stick to the plant. Next time, leave about 2 cm of the main stem when topping, then the stem shouldn’t tear as easily.

Large internodal spacing can be due to genetics, especially with Sativa-dominant genetics, the spacing is larger. You could try to increase the light intensity to slow it down a bit. However, observe the plant’s leaves; if the tips curl upwards and turn white, you should reduce it a bit, as it’s a sign of too much light and the initial phase of light stress.

I use Mycorrhiza, Rhizobacter, and Trichoderma in my grows. From seedling to the end of the vegetative phase, I also use Fulvic Acid, which helps with growth, increases stress resistance, and promotes the absorption of water and nutrients.

Here are some more pictures of my current grow; the pictures are of the one that kept growing after topping. Also a Sativa-dominant strain.

When it comes time to do any bending training i wait until the pot has dried out a bit and the plant is thirsty. When it is like that the branches start to become a lot more flexible and i find it a lot easier to get them to whatever shape im after. Planned dry backs like that can be great for overall health too as long as you water directly after training to help with recovery.

Thanks for the tip! So far, I’ve always bent and trained exactly halfway between the watering and dry phase. But it sounds absolutely logical that the branches are much more flexible when thirsty. I will take your advice to heart from now on!

Hi herr_gruen,

First of all, a huge thank you for the detailed answer and your time! On Reddit, you usually only get half-baked comments on this topic, your feedback is truly golden.

Tear & Topping: The tip with the 2 cm remaining stump is brilliant, thanks! I’ll get some cling film directly for the future. In an emergency at night, unfortunately, I only had regular tape on hand, but I’ll keep an eye on it.

Distances: I’ve moved the lamp a bit closer now and am observing the leaf tips for light stress.

Microbes: I’m totally with you on that. I’m currently still using Biobizz Microbes – they were expensive, but they work really well. Once the pack is empty, I’ll look for something else though. I’ll remember the fulvic acid for the Vegi!

By the way, your ladies in the pictures look damn good, respect!

Thanks again for the support!

You’ll only find nice people here who are happy to help. We all started somewhere, and you never stop learning.

When topping, it’s also about not accidentally damaging the

You really said that beautifully.

And I agree with that.

I have nothing relevant to contribute to the topic

Hey, I had another question,

Quick question about my structure: The 4 shoots in the middle are currently growing too tall.

Can I simply bend them down to the height of the outer shoots using Supercropping in 2–3 days?

The problem is: The stems are so rigid, they can

@Green_Pancake Wait until it’s time to water, or better yet, let them run a bit dry, normally they will go limp then and try bending them. If necessary, Supercropping should do the trick.

Have you tried rolling and squeezing them between your fingers? It takes a while but normally they become softer then. Maybe that helps you.

I usually attach my wires before topping and pull them outwards daily. When the shoots are freshly growing, they are still nice and soft.

I simply bend the stems down regardless of soil moisture as soon as they want to grow back up toward the light again.
I only top when the two side shoots are about 1-2cm, so that I can tie them down right away or a day later. Re-tying takes place as required by the plant’s growth.

The characteristics of internodal spacing depend heavily on genetics. You can counter this, for example, by reducing the distance between the light and the plant. (Just watch out for light burn)

And for split stems, reduce pressure and tape or stabilize if necessary.