Shoots on the cotyledons after cytokinin application
Tecnica manipulacion hormonal plantas
21 respuestas · 248 visitas
Take plastic cups and poke a few small holes in the bottom. Then place them like small domes over the seedlings. This way you get the humidity high enough for the little ones.
At the moment, everything is going very well with the 5 Gorilla Fast and the Black Mama. They are already at 23ºC and 50% humidity, so I put domes on them to increase it as they advised me. The light is at 60cm, at 30 or 40% power, and according to the Photone application, they reach 400 ppfd in the center and about 300 ppfd in the rest, which I understand is optimal.
All of them look very good, except for the 7th one, which is the auto I used for testing, and which has just recovered from a problem. I cut two leaves that I believe were infested with a fungus, or burned by phytotoxicity. Luckily I cut off the two bad leaves, and it already looks new and recovered.
As a precaution, I also started applying foliar applications of neem oil with agricultural soap (potassium soap) as they recommended, and I also put diatomaceous earth powder on the substrate. With this, I should be somewhat guaranteed to avoid any bugs or pests.
Hello @3xt3nd3d ![]()
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Well, I’m speechless… ![]()
What you’re doing here is so cool!!!![]()
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I would gladly want to participate. But at the moment I have too little time for it. ![]()
Although it must also be said. For that, one should have done more than just one or two grows and gathered some knowledge beforehand. ![]()
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I fully support the experiment!! That’s really something Dr. Weedenstein would do ![]()
I’m following this topic a bit more closely and I’m really excited about your results.
Where did you get your prior knowledge from and where did you get the idea?
In this sense, good luck and a good harvest. ![]()
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Grow on ![]()
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That looks very good, remember to vent the domes now and then. If the humidity is still too low, you can add one or two sprays of water into the bottles with a spray bottle, the little ones will surely grow better now. Leave the domes on until they almost touch them or get their first five-finger leaf. From then on, they should have formed enough roots to remove them and start watering.
I’m just an amateur when it comes to hobby horticulture lol, my knowledge comes from agro-engineering classes. I do the experiment as a hobby, just like my grows; plants and vegetables are my passion for evenings and weekends.
I’ve been contemplating trying hormonal treatments on cannabis for about half a year. I don’t know why no one has ever worked with it before. Honestly, it’s very difficult being alone with the tests, but I’m figuring things out little by little, such as that the hormone’s action is instant in the plant. Luckily, I have the autoflower to test on before the feminized ones.
Also, I have to adjust the dosages, change the solvent I use for a more potent one for cytokinin, and make a mother solution to better control the dosages later.
I only have 4 attempts, since two are controls (plants without hormonal treatment), but I have hopes of clarifying more things for the next grow with hormones. In this grow, there will be many errors.
small general update.
everything is going well, the small feminized plants are growing strong. I can add little about them since I confirmed firsthand (see photos of the dwarf autoflower) that hormones have an immediate effect, and I estimate I must wait at least another fortnight (15 days) to apply the cytokinins to 1 of the feminized plants, since, as we saw with the dwarf plant, it abruptly stops apical growth (the plant stops growing vertically). For another, I will wait until pre-flowering with the intention of seeing how it affects them at this stage, and for another in flowering.
I still have many doubts doing this alone; I don’t have enough plants to experiment with, there are only 6, and I don’t even have the doses clear, nor the key phases for application.
From the beginning, I wanted to leave two control plants (without treatment), but it is possible that I will reduce it to one, although, if the effects are not very noticeable, or if anything happens to the control plant, I would lose the control to compare the results.
2 controls
2 pre-flowering
2 flowering
For now, I will follow the planned route.
Regarding the autoflower with hormonal treatment, it currently has a lot of vigor, it looks very strong and healthy, but totally dwarf. The cytokinins have clearly had a very drastic effect, much more than I expected. The plant has clearly remained dwarf; it has many shoots, some stuck to others. The internodal distance (distance between shoots) is very short, almost null. On the one hand, it is clear that what I investigated about the effects of cytokinins is correct (increased cell division, youth hormone, decreased distance between nodes, cessation of apical growth, increased lateral shoots). What I really didn’t expect is that it would be so “literal” hahaha. Obviously, we don’t want dwarf plants, so the timing of application is key, as I imagine the doses are.
If you see the photos, the plant is dwarf; it is 2 weeks older than the 6 feminized ones, and they are the same size; it is very curious to see it. Obviously, this plant is no longer useful for producing, but I’m still going to let it grow and see how it evolves when it goes into flowering.
here it is clearly seen that the feminized plants are already taller than it.
timelog of the autoflower (blueberry) treated with cytokinin hormones.
Nov 19. in the image above, here are 15 days since its germination WITHOUT hormonal treatment yet.
Nov 22 first cytokinin foliar spray.
Nov 23. in the photo above, here are 19 days since germination, new shoots are visible emerging from the cotyledons, the plant has been WITH hormonal treatment for 1 day.
Nov 28. in the photo above, here are 24 days since germination, and 6 days since cytokinin hormones were applied.
the plant appears weak, we see burns on the cotyledons very similar to chlorine burns, but very localized on those two cotyledons, the first true leaves (with 3 points) show dark spots emerging from within the leaf vein and extending from the veins towards the leaf edge, at this point the plant looked weak, as if something was wrong with it, after consulting, pests were searched for without success and I came to the conclusion that it was either a fungus, or a phytohormone intoxication, I decided to cut the two stained leaves, and flush the roots with a pH of 6.5 and a weak EC of 290 along with its growth fertilizer, root stimulator, and cal-mag. at 3/4 of the minimum doses 0.75ml per L.
in addition, a preventive foliar application of neem oil + potassium soap was carried out, and diatomaceous earth was sprinkled on the substrate in case there was any pest or fungus to deal with, although no bugs appeared so far.
after this the plant recovered very well and was full of vigor and strength, but dwarfed.

Nov 30 photo above, here are 26 days since germination and 8 days since cytokinin application, as can be seen, it recovered its darker green hue, the diatomaceous earth is visible on the substrate and it was placed in a dome to maintain humidity and avoid unnecessary stress such as humidity fluctuations.
finally the plant seems recovered from the previous problems.
Dec 01 photo above, 27 days since germination and 9 since cytokinin application, it’s an image that I find quite amusing, the plant is dwarfed, very dwarfed, as you can see, I placed a lighter next to it where you can see that the plant is smaller than the lighter, it already has a height of 4 shoots on the stem counting the apex, separated by less than 1 cm, it is truly dwarfed, so much so that the other 6 plants have already surpassed it in height.
I also add as a comment, that its stem looks quite thick and robust, even more so compared to the size of the plant, as for the roots, I don’t know anything, I wonder if they are dwarfed like the plant or grew normally, time will tell.
Dec 05. photo above, it’s so dwarfed, with many leaves and shoots, all stuck together, with no internodal spacing as the plant completely stopped stretching vertically, so seen from above :
it makes it look like a lettuce (hahahaha) it’s very dwarfed and has many leaves and shoots, light cannot reach the inner shoots because all the leaves are concentrated, today I performed an apical prune on it, to see if the lateral branches can come out to see the light because the shoots are all clustered together, less than 1 cm apart, so no light reaches the lower ones, poor plant, it certainly fulfilled its function as a guinea pig and I can get a better idea of how hormones work in cannabis, it’s important not to apply them too early.
Dec 07
Dec 07 as we see, it didn’t grow in height, but it did develop many shoots in a very, very small space, this is very interesting for controlling the desired height in plants, I would love to know the exact moment to apply it… I’ll have to experiment, although right now I’m more focused on bud fattening and quality, but seeing the results, it would be very interesting to use photoperiodics with hormones and different types of pruning, for now, I’ll refrain and stick to the flowering improvement plan.
application on feminized plants will begin in pre-flowering with cytokinins + gibberellins, and in flowering with cytokinins only, they look beautiful for now.
17 days difference.
14-12 today I performed a small defoliation of leaves that were obstructing light to the lateral shoots after rearranging the LST, then I gave a foliar spray of as to help them cope better with stress. (The photo is from before the pruning and LST).
Today the pots already weigh little, which indicates that I can now water them approximately every 2 or 3 days, the plants are already drinking enough water, they are growing very well and healthy, in a few days I should do the apical pruning, but since I am going to conduct the experiment with cytokinins I prefer not to do it, the lateral shoots so far (without hormones) are developing well with the LST, I don’t see the need to do apical pruning although I don’t rule it out 100%
More photos of them
The photos are from 13-12, that is, 2 days ago, and the other one from a few minutes ago.
Today I made the first application of cytokinins on Gorilla 3 (rear center), Gorilla 5 (right center) and Black Mamba (front center) in a dose of 1000ppm diluted in distilled water, a light, very superficial application, since, on 13-12 early in the morning, I made a strong application (until dripping) to the test plant (white pot). As can be seen in the photos, it had no negative effects; on the contrary, many new shoots emerged and it maintains vigor (how lucky I am to have this plant to test my foolishness hahaha).
This is a closer photo, all the new pale green shoots can be seen. I hope to see results this week on the plants to which I applied it.
Since the last update on 12/15, I haven’t performed any more hormone treatments, I’m just uploading some photos to update the post.
You really put in the effort so they can’t run away anymore.
Very nice ![]()
Good luck with it. It’s going to be great ![]()
I have them well tied so they don’t escape
hahaha good to know an expert predicts it will turn out well, thanks
today I placed the SOG, I think I’ll have to start flowering next week if they keep growing this fast, but I would like the newest nodes to develop some height, I’m talking about the nodes of the secondary branches, because there are so many of them.
the control plants without treatment are growing faster, especially the apices, and I’m already running out of horizontal space, I mean, they always end up shading some other shoot.
the hormone-treated plants have grown less apically, they have produced more lateral branches with little internodal space, and from these lateral shoots, new shoots have emerged, with almost no internodal space, at first glance, it seems that the plant grew a bit slower (very little) but enough to notice it, let’s say they react as if stressed (which I imagine is normal) until the plant adapts, then the extra branching and the reduction of internodal spaces start to show effects, for now, they have so many new shoots that they look small and weak, I’ll have to wait to see how they turn out, if they develop into good branches or remain weak.
this is a control Gorilla, number 1, if you notice, it has a normal internodal space.
this is a treated Gorilla, the internodal space is about 2 cm
similarly, the test auto-flowering plant branched a lot, and I thought it would die.
Where do you get the hormone spray from?
I buy everything online; they are not brand names. In the case of cytokinins (kinetin) or indole acetic acid, they are laboratory-grade with 98% purity. Then you have to prepare the solution with a solvent (because it’s not water-soluble). You can also prepare the solvent yourself; in my case, I prepare it with sodium hydroxide. Very little is used, and it’s basically to dissolve the powder and mix it with water, according to the ppm you want or need, i.e., 100ppm, 1000ppm.
I was able to get gibberellins and paclobutrazol already dissolved and ready for use.
You can search on Google; it depends on what’s available where, but you can even find it on AliExpress.
the silvery one on the left is cytokinins (kinetin hormone)
indoleacetic acid (another hormone) is the same as the kinetin packaging and both need
indolebutyric acid (another hormone) the same, needs a solvent because it comes in concentrated powder.
these 3 need solvents because they are not water-soluble.
the one in the right image in Chinese is paclobutrazol (hormone)
I bought the gibberellins already liquid.
acetylsalicylic acid (another hormone), aspirin is used, of the Bayer brand, since aspirin is that, acetylsalicylic acid, and yes, it is a plant hormone (in fact, it is extracted from willow tree bark)
if what you want is to buy, you can look on aliexpress, amazon, or regional agricultural stores (because this is used in all crops) the thing is that for the hormone preparations they sell, they usually ask for an agricultural license, if you don’t have one, which would be normal, you can buy online and make your own preparations.
indoleacetic acid is auxin, it is used for root and vegetative growth, it is very effective (these are of the same group or grade as homemade lentil auxins, they have the same effect, but this way you control the exact dose and it doesn’t have traces of other organic matter like when we use lentils)
indolebutyric acid is used for rooting and germination, the famous brand CLONEX, its main active ingredient is this hormone, so you can save a lot of money by buying it, its strongest point is for making cuttings.
acetylsalicylic acid (aspirins) is great for dealing with plant stress, it revitalizes them, its use as a stress reliever is very noticeable, the plant generates this hormone when attacked by mammals and insects to deal with the stress of the damage produced by bites, a curious fact is that the plant knows it is being eaten by an animal or an insect by the animals’ saliva when biting, then is when it generates this hormone, I use it after pruning and it is very noticeable.
paclobutrazol and cytokinins act very similarly, they inhibit the production of gibberellins (the hormones that make plants stretch) making the plant shorter, with more compact nodes.
and gibberellins, the opposite of the last two, are responsible for the stretching and elongation of stems.
the last 3 are quite difficult to use, as there are no studies on cannabis, there are on tomatoes, peppers, strawberries, fruit trees, etc., etc. but the doses and application times vary greatly, furthermore, regardless of which of the hormones is being discussed, beyond a certain amount they produce the opposite effect to the desired one.
so… for the last 3 hormones, you have to find the exact dose and timing, and even having them, this would only be valid for that specific strain/plant variation, I am experimenting to see to what extent it could be profitable











































